Simple Gardens Exposed.

Were you aware that there are a number of mulching materials that you can obtain from around your own community that are free, and some of which can even be even delivered to you for nothing as well.

Impossible you might say. Well I mulch my gardens fairly heavily, and I never pay a cent for the mulch material. As a matter of fact, most of the mulch is willingly delivered to my home for nothing. As the former owners are only too glad to see the back of it, as it would cost them money, time and effort to find other ways of getting rid of it.

I also combine these outside sources of mulch with my own compost, weeds and other organic matter mixed through to achieve a great result in my garden, and so all that it costs me is time and effort.

So what am I talking about? While some of the below list is delivered free, other items I pick up myself, depending on time, circumstances, importance etc.

Grass Clippings from other people in the area or from lawn-mowing contractors.

Wood shavings from local wood turners and carvers, ( Do not use shavings from treated timber).

Small amounts of solid fill from friends who are excavating. This is to assist in raising garden beds, in my heavy clay soil.

Light prunings from shrubs which is shredded by me or put whole into garden

Heavier sticks and logs, which are turned into trellis, garden stakes, garden edges, seats, frames, log planters etc. while they slowly decay.

Newspaper, cardboard, non-rubber carpet underlay, and even carpet and carpet squares. Which is put under other mulch to prevent grass and weed regrowth

Animal manures sometimes mixed with straw from places like Racetracks and Showgrounds, Pony Clubs, Stables etc. I contact them well beforehand to see if any is available.

To this I also add my own weeds, throwing away some which can still be a potential problem, or burying them below the bottom most layer of mulch material to stop them regrowing.

Another item I add is any old potting mix from deceased plants or when repotting plants.

Being a fairly lazy gardener, I throw the material around a bit at a time, as they are available, and let nature mix them for me. On a couple of occasions I have received a bit too much wood shavings so these became path material between some of the garden beds, with a heavy underlay of newspapers. People even tell me that it looks and feels good underfoot.

Never put a large amount of fresh animal manure on any garden, as it will burn any plant around it. Be extremely sparing or let it age first for a few months before applying it to the garden.

I have been living in my new house for about fifteen months, and the mulch layer in all my gardens (there were no gardens originally), is about 10 cm or 4 inches deep. None of which I have paid for and little that I have had to even pick up for myself.

People are even starting to comment on how fast the plants in my gardens are growing in the local heavy black clay soils, and they are surprised when I tell them that I have never bothered to fertilise the plants. The reason for this is that the earliest laid mulch material, is now broken down into plant nutrients and is now feeding my plants as a plant nutrient soup aided by the soil life which has suddenly started appearing in my gardens.

Another benefit that has started to appear in the last few months is the arrival of insect eating wildlife into my garden. Predatory insects and birds are now visiting my gardens on a regular basis, where I saw none this time last year. Bees and butterflies are also starting to visit many of the plants, which have come into flower for the first time this year.

So what can you do to start locating your own supplies of free mulch material, well here are a number of suggestions.

Put a little sign near your gate, something along the lines of ‘Organic mulch required’, or ‘Lawn clipping wanted’. There are sure to be a number of local people who are currently throwing theirs away in your community or even local area. Never mulch solely with grass clippings as they form an impenetrable layer that air and water cannot get through. Always mix it with other things to stop it ‘thatching’, just like a roof over the soil.

See if you can get into contact with local people who are into woodturning and carving, or even local sawmills. And come to some arrangement about unpreserved wood shavings.

Check the local phonebook for local showgrounds/racetracks/stables etc, to find out if any have stable or manure waste to give away, for people willing to pick them up

In other words, start talking around the place that you are after mulch materials and they will soon start coming to you.

The only caution with using other peoples waste material is the chance that you might also import other peoples pests and weeds. I have rarely found it a problem because of heavy mulch on mulch routines. But it is possible.

One point being that when you first start applying mulch to your garden you may see some nitrogen deficiencies occur in some plants. This is because the organisms that are breaking down the mulch material are using up all the available resources of it during the initial breakdown. Once you have gotten past this time the old composted material provide more than enough nitrogen for future processes.

Another thing to be careful of is not to bury or mulch up against the stems of wanted plants, as it may cause further problems for your plants in rot problems around the collar of the stems.

So get out there and talk around the community, find the contacts, believe it or not they will be as grateful as you to solve their particular problems of waste reduction. As well as that, you may start making some new friendships out of the deal; I know I have.

• ISBN13: 9780875969626
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Product DescriptionA gardening system that works– so you don’t have to!Turn in your tiller for a stack of old newspapers! Replace your shovel with a layer of grass clippings! Let Pat Lanza show you how you can create lush, successful, easy-care gardens in practically any location without hours of backbreaking digging or noisy tilling. * Practical, first-person advice from an experienced gardener* Great ideas to let you spend more time enjoying your gardens and less time working in them* Specific “lasagna” techniques for the most popular vegetables, flowers, herbs, fruits, and more

Lasagna Gardening: A New Layering System for Bountiful Gardens: No Digging, No Tilling, No Weeding, No Kidding!

In spring Opuntia ficus-indica gets stunning bright yellow to orange flowers measuring 3 to 5 inches across.  After they are pollinated by bees or birds, the flower stem turns into pinkish red, edible prickly pears.  Over time these cacti form brown, woody trunks.  Most Opuntia varieties are not fussy about soil conditions, are cold hardy to 30 degrees below zero and many also have edible pears and pads.  Cattle are also known to have a taste for Opuntia cactus and in some parts of the world it is used as feed. 

Outdoors, prickly pears look especially good in silhouette against a sunset.  They also make very effective security barriers.  They can take regular pruning to maintain shape.  Always cut at the joints, where the two pads meet.  Cuttings can easily be rooted by burying part of a pad in moist, well drained soil.  Opuntia species have also been known to take root where pads have fallen on the ground. 

Indoors, Opuntia  cactus can be grown in pots but they generally don’t grow to more than a few feet tall.  They do best in full sunlight with very little water.  No cacti like to be over watered and they will rot if they remain in saturated soil.  Water sparingly and improve soil drainage in areas that receive a lot of rain.  My cactus lets me know when it needs water with thin pads and droopy tips.  One year we got over 20 inches of rain and the pads swelled up with so much moisture they broke off under their own weight. 

The cactus pads do not have prominent thorns.  Instead, they have clumps of small, hair-like needles.  It is very easy to get the needles lodged in your skin just by brushing against the pads and are difficult to remove.  Usually the only way to get cactus needles out of skin is with tweezers and a magnifying glass.  It is recommend to use tongs, a large fork, or cardboard to handle any part of cactus.  You should also wear leather gloves or two layers of cotton gloves.  The gloves will need to be checked for thorns though, so you may want to avoid handling cacti using your hands. 

Cactus pears have the texture of watermelon and a mild, sweet taste like pears or banana.  They are high in fiber too.  The seeds are black and about the size of a pea.  You can also eat the pads raw or cooked.  Young, bright green cactus pads are best for eating.  Thorns should be washed or scraped off before the cactus skin is peeled.  Visit http://www.theGardenPages.com for photos of prickly pears and cacti plus info on how to root cacti and succulent plants. 

Prickly pear cactus (Opuntia ficus-indica) are not only beautiful, but a useful addition to any drought tolerant landscape. Drop by http://www.theGardenPages.com to read more and see photos.